A Long Weekend In Denmark (with a side of Sweden)

What do you think of when you think of Denmark? Vikings? The Family Guy small table reference? Cold weather? Same here. Denmark was never on our radar and that oftentimes makes for a great trip (with the exception of Aruba). Do you ever think, Copenhagen Christmas market weekend?

In September 2024, a close friend asked if we wanted to take a short trip to a Christmas market in Europe this December. We said if the timing works out, and the price makes sense, we would love to. Remember, we do have a travel budget, but flying to Europe for the weekend with a few months’ notice does have to make sense, this blog isn’t written by someone with unlimited funds to spend on travel.

He mentioned that Prague was on his shortlist but offered to do some research on the top markets and then do some flight searches. He had been to Helsinki before, so somewhere new would be preferred. Geneva, Montbéliard, Vienna, and others popped up along with Copenhagen, Denmark.

Hoping to use Delta Air Lines and redeem some miles, I searched their site, but everything was more than I hoped on spending. SAS had just announced the expansion of its partnership with Delta Air Lines, and I was hoping for something there, but no luck.

Google Flights it was. We searched a long list of cities until Copenhagen appeared, departing Thursday evening and returning Sunday afternoon for $400 a person. Done! Adding a package that included seat selection, a carry-on bag, and priority boarding, the total came to just over $1,000 for both my wife and me.

The airline? Play, a discount airline based at Keflavik International Airport (KEF) in Iceland. The route would take us on an overnight red-eye to Keflavik, landing around 4 AM local time, then connecting to Copenhagen and landing around 11 AM local time Friday. The return would be on the same route but on a Sunday afternoon. Sounds good!

Takeoff

Unfortunately, because of a family illness, our pal who suggested the trip wasn’t able to come. We went anyway and headed to Terminal E at General Edward Lawrence Logan International Airport in East Boston, Massachusetts.

One thing to note is that Play does not participate in the PreCheck program, so even if you are enrolled, “PreCheck” will not appear on your boarding pass. I arrived about 45 minutes ahead of my wife and had a little bit of work to finish. We have mastered the “going away for the weekend, meet you at the airport” plan.

Even without PreCheck, security was fast because of the new scanners at TSA and not very long lines. Terminal E at BOS had recently been expanded, and the new area was beautiful. I found a wine bar, settled in, and finished some emails.

Boston-area traffic was getting the best of my wife, and for a split second, we almost had to activate plan B (in this case, go home). She made it with time to spare, and we headed to the gate. Boarding was smooth, efficient, and filled with smiles.

Once in the air, we reviewed a good selection of food on the menu and ordered a pizza. Of course, it was a small pizza heated up in an Airbus A320 oven, but for a discount airline, it was great and not that expensive. I ordered one of two Icelandic beers (it was not good) and fell asleep. Time seemed to pass quickly on the five-hour flight, and we landed in Iceland’s capital city.

Keflavik Layover

It was 4 AM and we all deplaned via a jet bridge right into a quiet terminal.

Here is my biggest—and really only—issue with Play. There was no one greeting the flight, and where to go was not clear. You either stayed in the terminal or had to change, but changing required clearing customs. Iceland is part of the Schengen Area countries, and so is Denmark. Having read that ahead of time, I was confident we would clear customs here.

I searched for a departures board and all of the flights were listed but no gates or terminals. I found a customer service desk at the same time someone appeared to have just arrived. She confirmed we needed to clear customs, but the gate nor terminal would not appear until a few minutes before boarding. That did not—and still does not—make a whole lot of sense, but oh well.

We cleared customs quickly and found the new terminal. The first thing I saw when I walked in was about 200+ people drinking beer like it was 4:30 PM, not AM. As much as I enjoy a cold one, there was nothing I wanted less. We found coffee and pastries and the gate to Copenhagen.

While this flight left at 6:35 AM GMT, it was 1:35 AM back in Boston. Typically, the first flight was the redeye, but this next short one felt more like it, especially with the sun not rising for another five hours in Reykjavik.

I pride myself on adapting quickly to time changes, but this one was unique. It was as if I was visiting someone else’s morning in the middle of the night before going back to bed to wake up again for my own morning somewhere else. We boarded again, and this time I slept almost the entire three hours and ten minutes to Copenhagen.

Copenhagen

We landed and deplaned quickly and headed to ground transportation in what felt like a very modern airport. Uber operates in Denmark (after not being there for years), but we elected to jump in a taxi right out front. The distance was short to our hotel, “AC Hotel Bella Sky Copenhagen.”

I paid around $130 USD a night, about 850 KRR (Danish Krone). At the time of writing this, $1 USD equals 6.44 KRR. I had withdrawn about $200 worth of Krone from my local bank before I left, even though my research told me that all I would need is my credit card, like in most places.

It was about 11:30 (Central European Time, six hours ahead of Boston), but we were able to check in early as I held Marriott’s Titanium status. The hotel was large with a very cool design. The lobby and bar area were large and decorated well for the holiday season, with Christmas being center stage.

The hallways and rooms were what I have come to expect in an average European hotel: clean, white, and small. The room had large floor-to-ceiling windows with a king-size bed (rare for these types of hotels). The best part for me was the fact that it was very quiet.

We decided to take a three-hour nap and wake up around three to head into the city. We had no problem falling asleep and felt decently rested when we woke up. My wife needed a few more minutes to get ready than I did. To note, she is not the type of person that takes forever, she is very timely, I just take around 45 seconds.

I grabbed a beer at the lobby bar and relaxed under the massive Christmas tree. A few minutes later, my wife arrived, had a beer of her own, then we headed out.

The City

Public transit in Copenhagen is great. It’s easy to use and navigate. “DOT Tickets” is the official app to purchase tickets. No one collects the tickets, it’s sort of an honor system, but keep in mind, police or other officials can ask for it at any time.

We had two good options leaving the hotel. One was a train that left from a station about 10 minutes away, walking. The other was a bus that picked up directly in front of the hotel. For our first trip, we elected to take the train, as we knew we wanted to try both, and it appeared the train was leaving sooner.

We walked the few blocks and followed the easy steps on Google Maps. After five fast stops, we arrived at our stop, Kongens Nytorv. We entered directly into a large shopping mall packed with people. It was a very festive atmosphere, almost something out of a movie.

That festive vibe only grew more intense as we headed outside. The streets were packed and the weather was perfect for the occasion, around 2 °C / 36 °F. As we headed to a small winter market near the courthouse, we stopped, and I got some mulled wine to sip on as we walked. Once at the market, we walked around a bit and bought some handmade gloves. We were both slightly hungry and headed off to check out the food/bar scene.

The Scottish Pub

Whether or not you drink alcohol, a pub is a great way to understand the place you are visiting. Even in the tourist areas, it’s a great place to start. Once we spotted a pub in the distance, we headed that way.

The Scottish Pub (while that is exactly what it was, it’s also the name) was packed. People were standing and sitting everywhere. I suggested we have one drink while standing and then head out.

While I was in line for drinks, my wife texted me that a couple had invited us to sit with them. She later told me the woman got up, gently grabbed her by the arm, and told her to sit with them. They were both about our age and sitting in a booth intended for four people.

This type of “intense friendliness” varies from place to place. Yes, you can and will find friendly people everywhere, but inviting someone to your table is part of some cultures and not others. Imagine being in almost any major city in the US. You’re sitting at a table with room for others and notice people at the door looking around for a place to stand. Are you jumping up to invite them over? Maybe you are, but I’d say most people wouldn’t, not out of unkindness, it’s just not done. That said, it’s not that we’re “cold Americans”; I’d also find it doubtful to see that happen in Germany. That said, most of Europe finds Americans extremely friendly compared to other Europeans.

We sat down with them and I offered to buy a round of drinks. I’ve learned that it’s not always best to repay kindness with money or something of value. A genuine gesture of appreciation is often enough, anymore may be an insult. In this case, a drink felt right. They were grateful and accepted.

I brought back four drinks, and we introduced ourselves. They lived about three hours north in Denmark and were visiting Copenhagen for the weekend, just like us. After a few minutes of chit-chat, we moved on to our own conversation, occasionally looping back into a group one. I wanted to learn their story without being overbearing.

We left before them and thanked them again for sharing their space.

Café Dalle Valle

We continued walking while looking at the map and saw Café Dalle Valle a few blocks up. It was a large, inviting restaurant, and while very busy, they had a table for two in the giant two-floor dining room.

Not uncommon for Europe, all orders are placed at the bar, paid for, and then delivered to your table. The menu was large and offered a lot, but I ordered a simple steak and my wife a pasta dish. We made quick work of it and headed back to the train to call it a night as we had a packed day in store tomorrow.

Day 2 – Malmö

The Øresund Bridge connects Copenhagen, Denmark and Malmö, Sweden. The body of water is known as Øresund or “The Sound.” The Øresund is part of the connection between the Baltic Sea and the North Sea. A short 40-minute train ride connects the two downtowns.

Normally we are not trying to visit other countries when traveling for three days, but this one was so close, it was worth it for the train ride alone. We purchased tickets ahead of time on the Øresundståg train departing Copenhagen Central Station and arriving at Malmö Centralstation. I paid €80.12 EUR ($93.05 USD) for two of us round trip in first class. Standard class was only about €20.00 less, so why not?

It proved to be helpful on the way back as the train was very busy. We sat in a very comfortable car and pulled out of the station on time. The trip across the water was amazing. It wasn’t so much a “breathtaking view” but more of a grounding experience, that I was crossing water that connects the Baltic Sea to the North Sea on a train departing Denmark, where I’m spending the weekend, and arriving in Sweden for a quick lunch.

It’s moments like that, for me, that remind me why I love to travel. It’s not sitting on a beach in Aruba or even looking over the Grand Canyon. It’s the simple everyday things done across the world, like this.

Anyway, I digress. We arrived in Sweden’s third-largest city and were told to have our passports ready for inspection should we be asked (we were not). Knowing the size of the city, I didn’t bother with much of an agenda. Once we exited the station, I had a feeling that this wasn’t an area worth walking around. I quickly searched and found an area near the Triangeln train station. Now had I done my research, I would have learned that station was better. Either way, seeing no other trains were coming within 30 minutes, I ordered an Uber.

Malmö Food

The driver was very nice and pointed out places in the area. It was about 11:00 AM and he told me that not much for food was open yet, understandably. We walked through an outdoor food market and did a few laps around the area until finding a restaurant called Sibylla, a hamburger restaurant.

We both ordered a local beer, and my wife had the “American Hamburger” (I know!) and I had fish with a mystery white sauce. I’ll give it a solid 5.334/10.

After lunch and exploring, it was time to check out one more place, Malmö Brewing Company. It was a large brewery in the basement area of a large building. I’m not sure that “basement” is the correct term, maybe “lower level”? The area was cozy and inviting and set up like, well, a brewery.

We went to the bar and ordered a few samples, some popcorn, and sat down. When I went back for another small pour, I started chatting with the man behind the bar. He seemed to be either an owner or at least someone very dedicated to the beer. Once he learned I was from the US, he was excited to talk about the NHL. We talked about that and beer for a bit, I bought a t-shirt, and we headed back to the train (the closer one this time).

Another 40 minutes later and we were back “home” in Copenhagen.

The Main Event: Tivoli Christmas Market

That night, it was time for what we had taken the trip for in the first place, the Christmas Market.

I purchased tickets to Tivoli, a massive outdoor amusement park and garden. During the winter, it is home to a very large Christmas Market. This year it runs from 14 November – 4 January 2026. We paid DKK 400.00 ($62.30 USD) for the two of us.

We left the hotel and headed to the bus stop outside. We had taken it earlier back and forth to the train station when heading to Sweden. We came back to the hotel for a power nap and headed out again. The bus was easy, efficient, and quick. Not that there was anything wrong with the train, but we never took it again, the bus just made more sense each time.

Once we arrived at Tivoli, we used the express line for mobile tickets and were inside in seconds. It was immediately stunning, and we knew it was going to be a fun night. Not knowing where to start, we decided to walk around and take it all in first.

I tried to compare it to something else in my head. It was like a large fair, but much different. Like an outdoor mall meets a fair meets an amusement park meets Times Square at Christmas meets the North Pole? That was the closest thing I came up with and I still don’t think that did it.

I’ll reference this a lot as you read my writing, and in this article, “this is why I travel.” I had not yet seen anything like it. I was seeing something truly new for the first time. It wasn’t like any of those things I mentioned above. The best way to describe it would be “A Christmas market in Copenhagen.”

Normally, our attention is spent on food, or entertaining events such as a show, sporting event, etc., not typically walking around an outdoor event for hours. This was different. There were hours’ worth of things to see, do, eat, drink, listen to, and watch.

Once again, the weather was perfect too. Cold enough to enjoy the holiday spirit but not too cold. Soon after entering, we found hot chocolate and donut-like pastries. We continued to walk around, now covered in sweet white powder and a chocolate upper lip.

Different shops and vendors filled the large area, and we stopped into almost each one to browse. Dinner came at a Greek-style restaurant where we ate outdoors at a picnic table overlooking a lake-like body of water with small gondola-like boats slowly moving around. Remember all of this is inside the park.

Next came dessert: a berry pie and an Irish coffee, also enjoyed outdoors, this time overlooking the same water with holiday music playing throughout the event while fountains appeared in the water and “danced” with the music.

After several hours, we decided to continue walking with the exit in mind. However, we found an entirely different part of the park we had yet to discover. It appeared to be more of the amusement park side but still filled with vendors and holiday spirit.

I eyed what appeared to be a casino and had to check it out. It turned out to be just that, and I had to participate just to say I did. The slot machines would remind you of a movie from 1977 Las Vegas. No cash, just coins. The best part was no English either.

I exchanged some paper money for coins, and we played for about 20 minutes, having no idea what it said but using common sense and asking a few other players. When we cashed out and exchanged the coins back for paper money, we learned that we nearly broke even. I’ll call it a win.

Finally, we exited back onto the busy streets of Copenhagen, having felt like we just left a different universe and were now back “home” in Denmark.

Amalienborg Palace

The only thing left I wanted to do that evening was to visit Amalienborg Palace, home of the King of Denmark. It was a short distance away and as we got closer, the crowds lessened and lessened.

Once we arrived, we were completely alone on the palace grounds. The only thing you could hear was the footsteps of the Den Kongelige Livgarde (Royal Life Guards) as they walked back and forth ceremonially protecting the King and his palace.

The city lights in the background didn’t provide much light, but the skylit reflected brightly off the palace lights and buildings. The combination of beauty and silence made it quite unforgettable.

A quick bus ride later and we were asleep in minutes, as we had a big day again tomorrow that consisted of breakfast and flying.

Final Day

We woke up around 8 AM local time and headed to breakfast in the hotel. This was the first morning we had breakfast there. It was a large buffet with excellent coffee. The food included many hot items as well as pastries and fruit.

Once we finished, we checked out and headed to the airport. A fairly easy security experience compared to others in Europe. “Easy” may be the wrong word, but a bit more relaxed.

Once inside, we found a very crowded airport lounge and hung out there for about 30 minutes before heading to the gate for our 11:45 flight to Keflavik International Airport (KEF) in Keflavik, Iceland. The flight was smooth and we touched down at 2:15 GMT.

After a quick exit through customs, we didn’t have much time but found one of many hot dog stands in the airport. This one featured a large photo of President Bill Clinton eating what appeared to be their hot dog. Iceland is known for hot dogs (so I learned) and very proud of them. We enjoyed one each with their local beer (much better than the one I had on the plane a few days back).

The next flight left at 4 PM GMT and the six-hour flight would have us home at 5 PM EST. For the large majority of the flight, I chatted with my seatmate to my right as my wife watched a movie to my left. We all enjoyed several of the meals offered by Play, and the flight went by quickly.

Customs was quick in Boston with our Global Entry, and just like that, we had completed a fun-packed European weekend.

Final Thoughts

In the end, it was a weekend we would do over again. For a total cost of under $1,900 USD for a weekend in Europe for two during peak season in Denmark, you can’t beat it.

Well, you can beat it, if you didn’t pick your seat ahead of time on the flight, stayed at a lesser-known hotel brand, didn’t indulge so much on food…

I’ve told many people about this trip and most have a reaction like:
“Must be nice!” or
“I could NEVER fly for eight hours to go somewhere for a long weekend.”

And that’s fine. You don’t have to. But I will never let it stop me.

It will be very challenging for me to see the world as much as I want if I only went places when I had a full week to do so. If this is the type of trip or life you want, stop worrying about having enough time, you never will! Take advantage of the time you do have and GO!!

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